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mad nomad: Since there were requests for Angeliki to write a little something about our adventures, she penned the following article. Enjoy!

Our next stop after the Chiloé Archipelago came with a delightful surprise… Valdivia, a city built at the confluence of rivers and shrouded in constant rain, is a unique blend of lush greenery and coastal charm. Its proximity to the Pacific Ocean brings a favourite guest – sea lions! These playful creatures have made the city’s fish market their home base, often climbing onto the stalls to steal fish. The daily squabbles between sea lions and fishmongers are a hilarious spectacle. I spent hours watching their antics, but dared not get too close.

Sea lions are the most regular patrons of Valdivia’s fish market—and they dine for free!

As we journeyed northward, we encountered numerous lakes, each more breathtaking than the last. My favourite was Lake Corazón, shaped like a heart and a true testament to Chile’s rain-fed beauty. The verdant landscapes, teeming with water, are a paradise for nature lovers. As an aficionado of thermal springs, I had marked the Termas Geométricas in Panguipulli as a must-visit destination. The ticket isn’t cheap (48 €), but for a true enthusiast, it’s undeniably worth it! Nestled amidst giant ferns, these outdoor baths feature over ten pools with temperatures reaching up to 45°C (113°F). The architecture – redwood walkways and natural stone – perfectly blends with the surroundings. Under a light drizzle, I luxuriated in waters at my ideal temperature of 43°C (109°F), emerging soaked and euphoric. I returned to the van, where Elias was waiting for me, ready to continue our journey.

The Termas Geométricas may be pricey, but for hot spring enthusiasts, they are absolutely worth it!

In the days ahead, we would part ways temporarily. Elias had set his sights on an ambitious trek to the Quetrupillán Volcano, while I opted for a more leisurely retreat in the cosmopolitan resort town of Pucón. Nestled beneath the smoking Villarrica Volcano – its summit glowing red at night – the town offered breathtaking views. Though picturesque, I barely had time to enjoy Pucón; Elias called early the next morning, stranded in a violent windstorm and unable to proceed. He returned to the trailhead, where I picked him up. His rescue was successful, and we celebrated my birthday that evening back in Pucón with plenty of food, as always!

Elias’s brief hiking venture into the Villarrica Volcano area had to end abruptly!

After a few days on the road, we arrived in Santiago, the sprawling capital of Chile. With a long to-do list and numerous landmarks to explore, the city quickly made an impression. Its hills, historic buildings adorned with graffiti, lively squares, and parks provided a captivating introduction as we navigated its streets toward our overnight site in an upscale, tranquil neighbourhood. Using this as our base, we explored Santiago by motorcycle and foot. Elias dedicated his time to hunting down spare parts and mechanics, while I wandered the city to get a better sense of its character. I reunited with Valentina, a friend I’d met in Greece through Couchsurfing, who showed us around her city over meals and conversations. We also met Vasilis, a Greek expat we had first encountered in Patagonia.

Santiago’s charm lay not only in its bustling streets, but also in its dramatic backdrop: the Andes, standing guard over the urban landscape!

Among Santiago’s many cultural gems, the Museum of Memory and Human Rights (Museo de la Memoria y los Derechos Humanos) stood out profoundly. Chronicling the human rights atrocities committed during Pinochet’s dictatorship, the museum’s exhibits were as shocking as they were impeccably presented. As someone with years of experience in human rights work, I found it deeply impactful – arguably the best museum of its kind I’ve visited. Another unforgettable visit was to La Chascona, the eccentric home of Chilean Nobel Prize-winning poet Pablo Neruda, built as a love nest for his affair with Matilde Urrutia. The house, brimming with eclectic treasures from Neruda’s travels, exuded a chaotic yet enchanting harmony. If Neruda were alive, I’d ask him to design and decorate my home!

It is estimated that nearly forty thousand people were abducted, brutally tortured, executed, or disappeared during Pinochet’s dictatorship.

Santiago’s cosmopolitan flair extended to its food and culture. I discovered Nepalese momos – my favourite dumplings – attended a wine festival, and stumbled upon the quirky “café con piernas”, where scantily clad baristas serve coffee and lend a sympathetic ear to patrons’ woes. After a week of city life, repairs, and restocking supplies, we were ready to head north.

La Chascona, the residence of Chilean Nobel laureate poet Pablo Neruda, was remarkably eccentric yet tastefully designed.

We reconnected with Noel, a French friend Elias had met during his travels in Africa, for a short journey together. First, we stopped in Santa Maria, where I had spotted an Alaskan Malamute kennel. I adore this particular breed, so this visit was a dream come true for me! The dogs showered me with such love and affection, that I felt warm and fuzzy for a long time afterwards! The following day, we arrived in Valparaíso, a colourful port city by the Pacific, where we explored its steep streets on foot.

My favourite Alaskan Malamute dogs showered me with such love and affection, that I felt warm and fuzzy for a long time afterwards!

Valparaíso, perched on steep hills, is a city like no other. Its signature funiculars, some dating back to the Belle Époque era, transport locals and visitors alike, offering panoramic views of the ocean and hills. The city’s vibrant murals cover entire buildings, creating an open-air gallery that one can spend days admiring and photographing. We also visited its historic cemetery and La Sebastiana, another of Neruda’s homes. Unlike La Chascona, this house was designed to resemble a ship, reflecting Neruda’s love for the sea, and its interior bore his unmistakable artistic touch.

The old funiculars, carrying people up and down the hills of Valparaíso, are the city’s iconic feature.

The next day, we followed the coastal route to explore a few seaside villages and resorts we had heard were beautiful. Our first stop was Viña del Mar, famous for its surfing. There, as well as in the nearby small towns, countless high-rise buildings line the coast, where city dwellers keep their vacation apartments. To be honest, they didn’t impress us much. We much preferred the charming Horcón, a traditional fishing village with wooden houses and sea lions lounging on the beach. It had a more authentic and peaceful vibe. That’s where we said goodbye to Noel after enjoying some empanadas, and each of us continued on our own way.

Horcón is a picturesque, traditional fishing village, featuring wooden houses and sea lions lazily wandering along the beach!

Heading inland, we visited Valle del Encanto, a cactus-filled valley adorned with ancient petroglyphs. The indigenous people who once lived here used these carvings and celestial observations in their rituals, connecting the stars to their spiritual practices. After days of travel, we finally arrived at the Atacama Desert – an iconic milestone and the beginning of a profound exploration…

In Valle del Encanto, the landscape transformed, blanketing us with towering cacti!

This is the third episode of our documentary about our adventures in Chile (with English subtitles):

mad nomad: Since there were requests for Angeliki to write a little something about our adventures, she penned the following article. Enjoy!

Re-entering Chile, this time from Tierra del Fuego, we had two missions. The first was to secure a spot on a ferry that transports vehicles and passengers from Puerto Natales to Puerto Yungay. This ferry would save us at least 1,000 kilometers of rugged roads (via Argentina, as there are no roads in that part of Chile)! However, the ferry spots were limited, and online, they all appeared to be booked. Near Puerto Natales lies the famous Torres del Paine National Park, which is perhaps the most popular in all of South America. We had attempted to book tickets online (two months in advance), but they were already sold out. So, we decided to go there and find out if we could visit the park for a day.

When we arrived at the famous Torres del Paine National Park, the weather was not favorable, and tickets were outrageously expensive, while they were already sold out two months earlier!

The second mission was a failure, as when we attempted to enter the park, it was pouring down with rain, and tickets were still excessively priced even for a single day. However, the first mission was a triumph, since we managed to secure spots on the ferry to Puerto Yungay. By mid-March, the temperature had dropped significantly, and the rain accompanied us continuously. Meanwhile, I was suffering from a bad cold that had been bothering me since we were at Tierra del Fuego. Thus, spending the next three days on the ferry, staying in our van with the heater on, surrounded by beautiful landscapes and enjoying three meals a day cooked by others, felt like a vacation in paradise!

Exploring the countless fjords of Southern Patagonia by boat was a unique experience we won’t forget anytime soon.

The route from Puerto Natales to Puerto Yungay passed through the fjords of Southern Patagonia and was truly mesmerizing! The only way to see them is by sea, as these places are almost inaccessible by all other means, so we had no regrets about our choice. Elias was impressed by the crew’s maritime skills, as the conditions were truly challenging—nothing like the Mediterranean we were accustomed to. The ferry made an intermediate stop at Puerto Edén, a small inhabited island connected to the outside world only through this ferry route. Elias visited the settlement and was fascinated by the remote atmosphere and the tough living conditions.

Puerto Edén is a settlement in the middle of the fjords of Southern Patagonia, where one feels completely disconnected from the world!

Upon arriving at Puerto Yungay, we stayed for a few days in the area to explore. Just outside the village of Villa O’Higgins is the southernmost point of the famous Carretera Austral, a significant landmark for travelers. What impressed us most, however, was the village of Caleta Tortel. Built around a fjord, a wooden pedestrian walkway extends over the sea, crafted from local timber, as the region is rich in logging. Although the weather was constantly rainy, the scenery was stunning and lush!

The charming village of Caleta Tortel, with its wooden walkway over the sea, enchanted us!

Heading north, we stopped to see the impressive rock formations of the Cavernas de Mármol, a dream destination for many photographers and one of the most important attractions in Chilean Patagonia. These marble formations within General Carrera Lake date back thousands of years. Since I was still unwell, I opted for a boat tour with an organized group, while Elias explored them on his packraft. The formations were magical, as was the way the sunlight reflected off the water and marble. Even a wedding had been held inside one of these formations, with guests watching the ceremony from boats!

Elias was eager to explore the famous Marble Caves of Patagonia on his packraft, and thankfully, the weather cooperated!

Continuing our journey north, we stopped at the Queulat National Park, where we took a beautiful hike to the park’s stunning waterfalls, which form below a glacier! The next day, we arrived once again in Chaitén, a place we had first seen months earlier by our packraft. From there, we took the ferry to the Chiloé Archipelago, specifically the town of Castro, which is located on the largest island of the archipelago. We arrived in the afternoon, so we didn’t see the bustling market and daily life, but the town was beautiful, with hills, charming colorful houses, one of my favorite churches in the trip so far, and an entire neighborhood built on stilts! I really liked Castro, and I think it was the first time during the trip that I said I could live there.

The Chiloé Archipelago is undoubtedly one of the most unique parts of Patagonia, not only geographically but also culturally.

In the following days, we explored the Chiloé Archipelago by our van and by small ferries that cross the short distances between the islands. Despite it being Easter, there was nothing special happening on the island, contrary to what one might expect. We camped in several beautiful spots, read about local myths, and I bought a fantastic yarn made from the wool of local sheep. The Chiloé Archipelago is famous for the unique architecture of its wooden churches, built using special techniques. In fact, several of those churches have been declared UNESCO World Heritage sites! They are certainly worth visiting. Our last day in Chiloé was eventful, as a storm had broken out, with heavy rain, closed roads, and fallen trees. We tried the local specialty, curanto, a dish made with shellfish, meat, sausages, potatoes, rice, and more, all traditionally cooked buried in the earth. It’s an interesting dish but quite peculiar for our tastes!

The Chiloé Archipelago is renowned for its intricate wooden churches, many of which have been declared as UNESCO World Heritage sites!

This is the second episode of our documentary about our adventures in Chile (with English subtitles):

mad nomad: Since there were requests for Angeliki to write a little something about our adventures, she penned the following article. Enjoy!

As soon as we entered Chile, we made our first stop at the Pali Aike National Park. Said park has lots of inactive volcanoes, as well as impressive formations with fanciful names such as “The Devil’s Adobe”. There are also caves with a lot of information on the daily lives of the indigenous people who used to live there back in the day. My beloved guanacos were a cornerstone in the indigenous’ lives! We stayed at Pali Aike for a night and then continued our journey towards Punta Arenas, in order to find the tyres that we so urgently needed for the van!

The guanacos that welcomed us to the Pali Aike National Park!

Whilst driving next to the Strait of Magellan, not far from Punta Arenas, we stopped at the abandoned San Gregorio Farm. Said farm was established in 1876 and it is historically significant since it was the first farm as such in the region. Dozens of thousands of sheep were reared here, due to the increased demand for wool at the time. The sight of Punta Arenas reminded us that we hadn’t seen a large city in months; it is, in fact, the largest city at the Strait of Magellan. After a long search around the city’s huge duty free zone, we finally located the tyres that we were after, so we geared up Don Rufus, the way he deserves. We visited a couple of museums, where we learned a lot of interesting information on the indigenous populations of the region, before and after the arrival of the Europeans. The most impressive of all was their ability to survive in such an inhospitable environment. Although it was summer, when we were there, it was very cold and extremely windy! We were told by locals that it snows in winter, but it is less windy at least.

The abandoned San Gregorio Farm, during the era when the demand for wool was high, housed up to 122,000 sheep!

After three days at Punta Arenas, we decided to go on an excursion to the southernmost point that can be reached by road on continental America! Whilst driving next to the Strait of Magellan, we passed by a dog cemetery and other interesting spots, until we reached our destination. We parked at the end of the road and set off for a short hike to the San Isidro Lighthouse, which is continental America’s southernmost large lighthouse. The weather was not ideal, but at such latitudes one cannot ask for much. The landscape, however, made up for it to the max! We camped on the Strait of Magellan and on the following morning we saw a humpback whale not far from us! It was so quiet that we could even hear it!

Camping at the Strait of Magellan, on the southernmost road of continental America!

After visiting continental America’s southernmost point, it was time for insular America… We loaded the vehicles and ourselves on a ferryboat (built in Greece!) at Punta Arenas and two hours later we were setting foot at the uninteresting town of Porvenir in Tierra del Fuego. The atmosphere at the island was special and one really felt like they were at the edge of the world! Tierra del Fuego is shared between Chile and Argentina and we had just started exploring the Chilean part.

Exploring Tierra del Fuego!

Our first stop was Laguna de los Cisnes, in order to see the stromatolites, which were created by microorganisms, mainly cyanobacteria, which were allegedly the first organisms to appear on Earth! There are only 14 places on the planet, where one can see stromatolites as such, so it was a good opportunity to find out what they look like. Next on the list was a colony of king penguins. We couldn’t come as close to them as we did with the Magellanic penguins that we had visited some time earlier. It was the first time, however, that we got to see them and we learned a lot about the way they live; Elias also took some very nice photos of them!

King penguins are a rare sight, but we came across them at a remote corner of Tierra del Fuego!

On the following day, we crossed the border at the nearly-abandoned Bellavista Pass, which may have been the easiest border crossing we did until now! Thus, we were back in Argentina. Until now everything was completely deserted. The Argentinian part of Tierra del Fuego was livelier, though. We spent two nights at Lake Yehuin, which impressed us with its beauty and tranquillity, since there was no wind, a very rare phenomenon in Patagonia! The winds in Tierra del Fuego are so strong that the trees in many parts are always bent!

Lake Yehuin enchanted us with its beauty and tranquility, since it was calm, a rare phenomenon in Patagonia!

We were by now on the homestretch for Ushuaia, our main destination in Tierra del Fuego. That is an important milestone for travellers, since it’s the southernmost city in the world! At Ushuaia we had arranged to meet with the Temperidis family of the “The World Offroad 2” expedition, whom Elias had first met in Asia years earlier. Akis and Vula had been traveling in an Iveco truck with their daughter, Anastasia, over the last six years. When we met with them, they were very close to completing their long journey. We spent a week together, during which we engaged in interesting activities and visited several places at the southern part of Tierra del Fuego.

The big meeting with the team of “The World Offroad 2” expedition!

Ushuaia is a fairly interesting city. Its centre is cute, albeit a little touristy, while it is reminiscent of a European winter resort. Vessels that take tourists to Antarctica depart from Ushuaia; hence its port is quite busy. An important part of the city is its old prison, which was larger than I expected and has now been turned into a museum. In the past, Argentina would send both criminals and dissidents to Ushuaia, the way Great Britain had done with Australia. After exploring the city all together, we headed to a nice wild camping spot with a river and horses, 20 km (12 miles) away from Ushuaia. We stayed there two days and explored the surrounding area. I went hiking with a pack of husky dogs that pull sledges during winter and had an amazing time! Elias and Akis hiked to the Esmeralda Lake, which they really enjoyed!

The beautiful Lake Esmeralda, where Akis and Elias hiked!

It was time to head to the end of the southernmost road in the world! Whilst driving next to the Beagle Channel this time, we were heading east. It was sunny and the landscapes were gorgeous! The end of the world’s southernmost road was nothing special in appearance. It was, however, an important milestone for all of us, which filled us with a sense of fulfilment. We then spent two nights camping next to beautiful rivers, cooking, playing board games and discussing for hours about all those things that determine our strange lives… Upon returning we saw a dead whale that was washed ashore. We also visited the Harberton Farm, which was the first farm at Tierra del Fuego. It was set up by an English family. Despite spending unforgettable moments, it was time to say our goodbyes. This is the fate of travellers after all… Each goes off on their way. Akis, Vula and Anastasia would spend a few more days at Ushuaia, while we had to begin our journey to the north.

Exploring together the world’s southernmost road!

Once back to the Chilean part of Tierra del Fuego, we spent a night at the municipal camping of the small (and weird) town of Cerro Sombrero, which Akis and Vula had mentioned. The camping had brand new facilities of high standards and, surprisingly, it was completely free of charge! On the following day and amidst gale-force winds, we embarked on a boat at Bahía Azul, in order to cross the Strait of Magellan and return to continental America. Seamen in these lands are true heroes and despite the extreme weather conditions, they were able to sail us across safely. We tipped our sombreros to them!

Tierra del Fuego generously offers such magical places for camping!

This is our documentary about our adventures in Tierra del Fuego (with English subtitles):