Middle East
Jordan (May 2016)
Visa
Issued: At the border
Duration: One month, single entry
Cost: 86 Euros
Border crossings
The new law at the moment stated that even at the special economic zone of Aqaba, you have to pay your visa. The advantage, if you enter through Aqaba, is that you can take your money for the visa back, if you spend more than two days in Jordan and you exit through the same border post. This worked for me. Much better deal, especially if you are planning to visit some ancient sites, is to buy the Jordan Pass. You have to do that online before entering Jordan. In that case, you pay almost the same amount of money, you can enter plenty of ancient sites for free and you do not have to pay an extra visa fee. Except that, I had to pay 39 Euros for a one-month motorbike insurance, which is compulsory. Even with a Carnet de Passages en Douane, I had to pay 29 Euros more for motorcycle custom fees.
Jordan – Israel (Aqaba): I got back the money for the visa fee, I paid 5 Euros for departure tax and I exited Jordan without troubles.
Digital maps
Open Street Maps have enough details even off-road.
Nice off-road routes, sights, wild camping spots and other useful waypoints: you can download the file in GPX format.
Wild camping
Jordan is a very easy country for wild camping. There is lots of space in the desert, on the mountains and elsewhere and the locals are very friendly!
Israel (June 2016)
Visa
Issued: At the border
Duration: Three months, single entry
Cost: Free for most Westerners
Border crossings
Usually Israeli authorities do not stamp passports. They issue an identity card instead, in order to hide proof of your visit to Israel and avoid troubles when you visit some Arabic countries. However, if you definitely want to avoid the passport stamps, make sure you let them know and expect some more questions about the reasons you ask that…
It would be nice to have a Green Card insurance for vehicles in Europe, which is valid in Israel too. Otherwise, you would have to buy at the border Israeli insurance for your vehicle, which is really expensive, as most things in Israel are.
Israel – Greece (Ben Gurion Airport): Usually the only feasible way to ship your vehicle from Israel to Europe is through A. Rosenfeld Shipping Ltd.. If you ship from Europe to Israel, then you have some cheaper options, like Grimaldi. The process with A. Rosenfeld Shipping Ltd. is easy. It’s just ridiculously expensive! Book your shipping online and then you will just need a couple of hours to complete the process in Haifa. The ship usually sails once a week. Shipping of a motorcycle from Haifa, Israel to Lavrio, Greece costs 400 Euros and you can have your luggage on the bike. If you want to travel onboard, you will not be assured that there will be a free cabin until the last moment, while you will have to pay the astonishing amount of 300 Euros per person, which is about three times more expensive than an average flight ticket! You will also have to pay 260 Shekels (60 Euros) at Haifa port for motorcycle taxes. The ship takes three days to reach Greece, while an airplane needs about two and a half hours. If you fly, make sure you are at the airport at least three hours before your flight to allow time for the extensive questioning.
Digital maps
Only Open Street Maps had information about Israel but they were not very accurate when it comes to off-roading.
Nice off-road routes, sights and wild camping spots: you can download the file in GPX format.
Wild camping
There are some places to wild camp in the desert or in forests. Wild camping is quite popular in Israel. Just make sure you are not in Israeli army’s training zone.
West Bank, Palestine (June 2016)
Visa
Not needed.
Border crossings
Palestine – Israel (Jalame): Initially we were not even allowed to cross the checkpoint on a motorbike! We were considered dangerous and forced to leave! After making clear that we were just tourists, we were allowed again into Israel. You can read the full story at: Palestine: Does it exist?
Wild camping
It is possible to wild camp in the West Bank but make sure you are not in a sensitive area and you are not mistaken for an Israeli.