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Chile: Packrafting in the rivers of Patagonia!

mad nomad: Since there were requests for Angeliki to write a little something about our adventures, she penned the following article. Enjoy!

 

Time was passing by and we were approaching the end of the three-month stay we were entitled to in Argentina. Thus, it was time to enter Chile for a few days, in order to renew our stay in Argentina. In theory, we could return to Argentina on the same day. We opted, however, to stay in Chile for a bit and to explore a part of it and its rivers in particular.

Futaleufú

Since our first steps in Chile, at the town of Futaleufú, we felt as though we were in the Latin American Switzerland!

We entered Chile from the Futaleufú Pass. Although the two countries share thousands of kilometres of borders, the differences between them were evident from the very beginning. Argentina is plagued by a decades’ long financial crisis, while Chile has one of the highest standards of living in Latin America. This became apparent from the first houses that we saw, once we crossed the border. The architecture was somewhat different to that of Argentina, using wood as the main material, as well as an unusual style, which looks as if the walls are covered in wooden scales. Later on, we learned that this style originates from the island of Chiloé that we visited a few months later. The first town after the border is also called Futaleufú and is famous for its namesake river, which attracts kayak and rafting enthusiasts from all around the world. Said river is Class V, so we just marvelled at it and moved on to Río Yelcho that is more suited to our kayaking experience.

Río Futaleufú

Río Futaleufú, although spectacular, is a Class V, so we just marvelled at it and found a calmer river for our kayak.

Another important difference between Chile and Argentina is the weather. Since Chile is on the windward side of the Andes, where the humidity coming from the ocean is discharged, the climate, as a result, is much rainier. We set off on a two-day route, covering around 50 km (31 miles) on our kayak on Río Yelcho. On our journey we saw glaciers, waterfalls, animals, farms, holiday homes and we were rowing along with the annoying tábanos (evil, large horseflies that bite hard)!

Río Yelcho

After two days on our kayak on Río Yelcho, we made it to the Pacific Ocean, which Elias saw for the first time!

On the second day of our journey, it was, unfortunately, raining, but we reached the Pacific Ocean for the first time on our trip! We also saw penguins next to our kayak! The route ended at the town of Chaitén and from there we headed back to the east, so that Elias could go on a longer journey on the kayak. The landscapes were magical, with lush vegetation and the impressive, massive leaves of the giant rhubarb plants!

Giant rhubarb

The leaves of the giant rhubarb plants are by far the largest leaves we have ever seen!

The route that Elias would go on started from the town of Palena and went all the way to the Pacific Ocean, a total of 200 km (124 miles) this time round! I would rest and camp in several places along his route, which we estimated would take five days. I cooked different foods for him to take and we parted ways. We had an appointment on the third day at a bridge, so that I could film him, but unfortunately he didn’t show up, neither could I communicate with him via VHF.

Río Palena

Elias sailed on Río Palena by himself, as the journey would take several days and there are many rapids in this river.

I went to La Junta, the closest town, in order to purchase a Chilean SIM card for my phone and so, in the end, we managed to communicate! The wind was getting stronger and he couldn’t continue his course. After several misadventures, we managed to meet and I picked him up with the van. We spent another night in Chile and, on the following day, we headed to the border with Argentina. We did like Chile and look forward to exploring it further!

Camping

Camping on the shores of Río Palena, in a typical Patagonian landscape!


 

This is the first episode of our documentary about our adventures in Chile (with English subtitles):


 

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